Each year the estate opens for a series of special events, from tours of the gardens during the summer months, champagne afternoon teas, spring walks, private tours and of course, Christmas lunch.
The original Georgian house was built between 1796-98, but was bought in 1980 by the Duchy of Cornwall for the then Prince of Wales. The current owner now is the current Prince of Wales, Prince William, and King Charles rents the estate from the Duchy.
Events are held in The Orangery and we had strict instructions (from the very friendly on-site police and staff) about where we could take photographs, so our main picture above is a file copy. We were allowed only in the Orangery and the shop. Lunch was a typical soup starter followed by turkey, roast potatoes and vegetables. We were given a free mulled wine because the room was so cold, but dessert - ie Christmas pudding - was only available at extra cost (but since I don't like Christmas pud, that was fine by me!). We booked this event in early September as soon as the dates were announced, as we know from previous years that the lunches sell out fast!
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We loved the pretty china crockery, only to find the items for sale in the shop - with a single coffee mug costing an eye-watering £46! Of course we stocked up on other (less expensive) Highgrove themed goodies for Christmas. All the proceeds from the shop go to the Kings Foundation which offers courses, workshops and programmes on sustainable living through heritage and craft skills.
Highgrove is situated just outside the pretty town of Tetbury, nestling in the beautiful Cotswolds, and we stayed at The Ormond, an 18th century former coaching inn. Our rooms were in what had previously been the stables, and had been beautifully restored and refurbished. Each room was individually styled and tastefully decorated to a high standard.
FOOD AND DRINK
For our first evening, we found a delicious Spanish tapas bar Koko (with its sister restaurant Lola) on the main road through the town, which set the bar high for our gastronomic experiences during our visit. Breakfast the next day was a cosy coffee shop Cafe 53 with fresh tasty produce served by the friendly staff. Upstairs in the same building is a lifestyle and homeware shop Domestic Science, which unfortunately for us wasn't open at the time.
We did eat at our hotel on the evening of our Christmas lunch, but this was just a light meal. They served good wholesome British staples - probably just the thing for those ancient weary travellers.
Our evening meal on the final evening was also a good old British staple - fish and chips -which we enjoyed at The Close Hotel, where we had previously enjoyed morning coffee. This is another beautiful hotel with stunning gardens - unfortunately too cold to enjoy at this time of year! But it did have a lovely roaring fire and cosy seating in the lounge area. The cocktails were rather good too!
It was interesting to see so many people enjoying post-work drinks or coffee in the local establishments. We popped into The Snooty Fox for a glass of Prosecco early one evening, and it was heartening to see the bar was full of people of all ages.
HISTORY OF TETBURY
The Cotswolds, situated to the south west of England covers around 800 square miles and takes in five counties - Gloucester, Oxfordshire, Wiltshire, Warwickshire and Worcestershire - with some of the most beautiful picturesque golden honey coloured stone cottages in the country - as well as many stately homes, palaces, castles and mansions. It has certainly become a celebrity enclave boasting many famous names buying country homes in the region.
The area is also famous for its stunning countryside, featuring some of the most famous gardens and arboreta in the country. Indeed, King Charles is a keen organic gardener, having transformed the almost derelict grounds at Highgrove Gardens, which incidentally are open to the public during the summer months.
The town itself has more than 1300 years of recorded history. Many of the beautiful homes were originally owned and financed by the wool staplers (dealers) who owed their living to their wool sales. However, there were no large mills to make it into cloth, due to the lack of continuous running water.
However the picturesque cobbled Chipping Steps (pictured above), which originally formed the entrance to the town, was the site of the "mop fairs" where domestic staff and farm workers offered themselves for employment. It now features pretty cottages, built in later years and which were once home to the town's weavers.
St Mary's Church dominates the skyline with its impressive tower. The nave dates back to the 1770s with the spire being built some hundred years later.
The Market House (above) is probably one of the most photographed buildings in Tetbury - no longer a market but used for exhibition and event rental. Built in 1655, it was where wool and yarn was bought and sold. However in 1817, the top floor was removed and it became home to the county fire brigade, and was sometimes used as a police lock up before the police station opened. Incidentally there is a Police Museum and Courtroom, offering glimpses of our social history and culture with artefacts, photographs and information about the cells, courts and justice systems (who doesn't remember learning about the Peelers in English history??)
The rest of the town features an abundance of antique shops,while clothes stores were very country casuals - small Cs not the chain - and bakeries with delicious wafts of satisfying pies and pasties.
We discovered a fascinating shop - Artique - and had an interesting conversation with the owner who had spent years travelling in the Middle East and developed trading links with some of the poorest in those countries. (Read part of his story here - the rest is on newspaper cuttings on the wall of the shop) The result is an eclectic mix of ethnic products from clothing to carpets. And who knew you could make notebooks from elephant poo?
CIRENCESTER AND MALMESBURY
Above is the entrance to Malmesbury Abbey
On day three, we ventured to Cirencester, just a short drive away. Sadly the weather was against us and the rain forced us inside "the Cotswold Cathedral" known as St John the Baptist church, which stands on the site of the original Saxon church built in the 12th century. many of the original parts of the building remain - the nave originated in the 1100s but was rebuilt in around 1520 and raised in height by 20 feet. The Tower was erected in 1400 with funds confiscated from the rebellious Earls of Kent and Salisbury, who were executed in the market place.
The church stands alongside the substantial Abbey Grounds park, which would be inviting to walk around on a sunny day, but held no welcome for us in the pouring rain!
We drove back via the town of Malmesbury, England's oldest borough and home of the country's first king - King Athelstan (894-939AD approx). He is reputedly buried somewhere on the site of the magnificent 12th Century abbey which dominates the skyline. The first church on this site was St Aldhem's, before the construction of a much larger abbey which stands where the current graveyard lies. The current abbey was built in 1180, and was added to in the following 200 years, with a great spire which boasted it was the tallest building in England. Unfortunately the spire, and the tower fell around 100 years later. It still operates as a church to this day.
Commemorative plaques to the side of the church depict the enormous service of the Luce family over several decades who served in all of the volunteer and armed forces during the past wars. As the daughter of a late serviceman who died after being stationed on Christmas Island in the 1950s, this had a particular resonance with me.
On the whole, we were lucky with the winter weather - although it rained one day, we missed the worst of it, especially since Storm Darragh hit the region immediately after we left.
I had wanted to try and get to High Clere Castle, home of the TV series Downton Abbey which was about an hour's drive from Tetbury, but we were too late to book a tour. However - moving on, Santa has brought me a trip there in the Spring, so watch this space....
