FALLING IN LOVE WITH VENICE (BUT NOT THE SEAGULLS)

Those of you who follow my personal account, rather than our travel blog, may remember that I celebrated (if that's the correct word!) my 70th birthday last year.  My gift from my wonderful daughter was a family trip to Venice for March of this year (2024).

The trip included my husband, daughter and her partner.  To say my husband didn't want to go is an understatement.  He doesn't like travelling at the best of times, which is why I often travel with my best friend Anne or my daughter.  He was not happy even as we sat on the plane for take-off.  But I have to report that Venice worked her magic on him and he came back converted ("But I don't want to go back".)

What's not to love about Venice? It is such an fascinating city, both architecturally and historically.  Anne and I went there in 2019 (see our previous blog) but only for a day as we were sailing the Adriatic Sea on a cruise, and I vowed to go back and spend some time there.

THE HOTEL

We took an EasyJet holiday and stayed at the stunning San Cassiano Calle del Rosa situated on the Grand Canal, near the famous Rialto Bridge.  A fabulous old-style palazzo, we were given the choice of a ground floor room or one two floors up, but there was no lift.  Because I have a bad back, we opted for the downstairs room - probably the only bedroom on the ground floor and was much larger than average. 

Our Room at the Hotel San Cassiano Calla del Rosa

The hotel is somewhat famous for being the home of the Italian artist Giacomo Favretto (1848-87) who painted everyday scenes from his home city. Prior to this, I have been unable to find out who owned the building, which would probably have been a wonderfully palatial home to one of the rich merchants in the distant past.

Today's decor pays tribute to its historic past, lavishly decorated with reds and golds, and filled with extravagant artifacts and glassware - more on that later. 

The Poultry Seller by Giacomo Favretto

Breakfast in the hotel was a very reasonable 8 Euros with as much as you could eat, with a choice of bacon, egg, sausage and toast, cereals, pastries and continental selections. Although there is no restaurant for lunch or evening dining, snacks are available and there is a bar, but since we were out all day, it wasn't a problem. The breakfast room, however, had a small balcony with a fabulous view of the Grand Canal.

Our Hotel Balcony

TRANSPORT

I had paid for a private water taxi via Venicelink from the airport, since we didn't know where we were going, or how to get the bus or vaporetto. Most hotels on the canals have their own mooring, so we didn't have to wander round looking for ours. It was quite expensive at 240 Euros for the return, but since we were leaving for the homeward journey at 4 am, I figured I didn't want to be trying to find the bus station or waiting for a bus at that time.  It turned out to be the best thing I did, since on departure morning, the weather was exceptionally foggy, and our boatman told us it was too bad to take us all the way to the airport.  Instead he took us to the nearby bus station, where a waiting Mercedes private minibus whisked us comfortably through the fog in plenty of time.

HISTORY

On our first visit, Anne and I had visited the Doge's Palace - the political, cultural, military and judicial centre, now a museum incorporating several buildings, which has pride of place in the main piazza overlooking the lagoon. The first building was built in the 1100s but was destroyed by fire and rebuilt during the 14th and 15th centuries.  I won't go into the long and varied history history, but you can read via the link here which will tell you all you need to know. Suffice to say, Venice was invaded several times over the centuries, by Arabs, Genoese and Ottoman Turks, since it occupies a strategic maritime position, which brought trade and wealth to the city.(Interesting fact Casanova was the only person to escape from the prison where he had been imprisoned inside the palace). Randomly, we also went into the Torture Museum, which appealed to the macabre member of our party!  All I can say about that is that there were some very sadistic and devious people back in the day. It is situated within the Doge's Buildings and links to the prisons in the palace.

We didn't go in the main palace this time, instead heading for St Mark's Basilica, (Basilica San Marco) which we missed last time.We chose to buy tickets in advance here, since there are often long queues, especially in high season.

The Doge's Palace

The construction of the first church on the site was commissioned in 828 when the relics of St Mark were brought to Venice from Egypt. This was done by the Doge (the then head of state of the republic), whose palace was next door, the Palazzo Ducale. During an uprising in 976, the church burned down completely, after which rebuilding the remains of the church started two years later. 

Inside St Mark's Basillica

The current building – the construction of which dates back to 1063 – has been extended on almost all sides. During the extensions and renovations in the following centuries, the wooden beams were replaced with stone for durability. However, while the stones are covered with marble and sculptures, you can longer see the original rough, underlying constructions. 

The Piazza San Marco is where all the action happens, though unfortunately during our visit, there was a lot of construction and maintenance work, with bare pipes and standing water.  Normally in summer, this is a hive of activity, though the cafes were still doing business around the edges. The 99' bell tower, situated at the corner of the square was built in the early 16th century, on the site of a lighthouse dating back to the 9th century. Tickets are available to visit, but since I hate heights, I gave this one a miss.

The bell tower situated are the corner of the piazza.

PLACES TO SEE

We had been advised by a friend to visit the Hotel Danieli for a coffee - not to stay there, although I would have loved to, but at between 1-2,000 Euros a night, it is totally out of our price range. Instead, we opted for drinks and a hot chocolate.  This superb hotel overlooks the lagoon, with its own mooring.  What a treat  - the stairway looked like something from a Disney musical, and the drinks were accompanied by crisps, chocolate and savouries.  Well worth a visit (note if you watch Netflix, there's a scene in the current mini-series, Ripley, featuring the hotel, where the character's father is staying).

The Hotel Danieli

No visit to Venice is complete without a ride in a gondola, and there were many gondoliers to choose from.  We picked up ours outside the Zara shop, and the ride was magical. Our gondola cost 90 Euros for about 40 minutes. My husband worked in construction, so he was interested in the construction of the buildings and how well they have endured being under water.  

A gondola on the Grand Canal with the Rialto Bridge in the background.

The Floating City is actually a series of around 120 islands, standing on marsh and salt lands.  To build on such unstable land, early builders drove millions of piles of wood into the earth at 17cms apart before constructing concrete on top and then brick buildings on top of that.  Brick is lighter than stone, and the buildings had many arches to carry the load - giving Venice its trademark look.  The wood hasn't rotted since it is permanently under water, starved of oxygen. Authorities regularly monitor the canals and rivers to look for damage caused by silt which is churned up by the very busy river traffic. There are some fascinating videos on You Tube which you might be interested to watch for more detailed information on the history of the construction of the city. And yes, some of the sewage finds its way into the canals, particularly during high season with more visitors and lower water levels.  However, recent investment in sewage treatments and strict rules for hotels and restaurants about waste disposal and septic tanks continue to improve the situation.  And although some people swim in the lagoon area, I wouldn't risk it!

Note the cherry beak!

I know you want to hear about the seagulls - which are definitely to avoid! The food in Italy is divine, and so is the galato, so we couldn't not indulge.  I ordered my pistachio, mango and cherry gelato as we walked away from the lagoon, when I was attacked from above by the biggest seagull I have ever seen.  I thought something had fallen on my head as the gull dive-bombed from above and stuck its beak in my icy treat.  Fortunately its claws didn't break the skin on my face, but I had a very pink cheek for the rest of the day. It was only the following day when we saw the signs advising tourists not to eat outside.  I'm glad it was only gelato and not a meal from one of the pavement cafes by the lagoon!

Glass blowing at Murano

We had booked excursions for day three (there are many from which to choose), taking in Murano and Burano islands.  Again, I had previously visited Murano, but thought the men would be interested in watching the glass blowing.  It is worth mentioning that every building we went into  - our hotel, restaurants, cafes and tourist shops were full of Murano glass lamps, chandeliers, glasses and nick-nacks. They also ship all over the world, but as every piece is hand-made it is very expensive, and will probably become more so since it is becoming a dying art.  The glass-smiths usually hand down their skills and their jobs to members of their families, though of course the conditions are not ideal for the younger generation, because of the intense heat - which is much worse in summer. Unfortunately they do not allow you to photograph and stunning finished pieces in their shop, but everywhere we went had a Murano chandelier or lamp!

A colourful Murano chandelier

A more intricate Murano chandelier

Burano was were I particularly wanted to go, since we hadn't had time previously, and it didn't disappoint.  Pretty fishermen's houses in glorious colours met us as we stepped from the boat.  The tradition of painting their houses was so that the returning seafarers could see their homes as they sailed back into port after long days away at sea.  Once again, though, fishing as a career is dying in Venice, so many of the homes have come up for sale in recent years - with the stipulation that if they are re-painted, it must be in the same colours.

Burano is also famous for lace-making, and there is a museum of beautiful lace just off the main square.  There are also pretty lace tops and homewares to buy.

Coloured houses in Burano

There is still a thriving fish market, however,back on the main island, which we stumbled upon by accident.  We found sea bass, sea bream, red mullet, lots of crabs and shellfish.  Next door, fresh flowers and vegetables created a colourful display with chillies, artichokes and tomatoes.

Fish Market

Flower Market

TRANSPORT

Getting around Venice is relatively easy.  There are plenty of water buses, or vaporettos, and water taxis to get around, but we walked everywhere, since there was always something to see.  Our hotel meant crossing the famous Rialto Bridge to reach the lagoon area - which we did several times a day! The bridge itself is also fascinating, particularly for its construction, which has no central support - and also for the fact that it is a small shopping centre! 

It was also fun to see how all the supplies come in from the mainland by boat.  We had a laugh seeing the ASOS parcels piled up on the DHL barge!

The famous Rialto Bridge

The trips to Morano and Burano were organised, so we got lots of information from the guide, but I would have liked to have spent longer in Burano, particularly since the weather was sunny and warm. (Did you know the word "quarantine" comes from the Italian number 40 "quaranta".  This is because sea farers who came back to Venice were required to spend 40 days on the island of Lazzaretto Vecchio after their travels, if they showed signs the black plague. Those infected were transferred to Poveglia ("Death Island"), and there are tales of medical experiments and painful deaths. Apparently because of this, and those who died there in extreme pain, it is believed by some to be the most haunted island in the world.  Access to the island is forbidden, but we sailed past it.

The stunning bridge artwork by Lorenzo Quinn

We also saw the "Building Bridges" artwork by Italian artist Lorenzo Quinn depicting six human hands which span the entrance to the basin of the Arsenale, a complex of 12th Century shipyards in the Castello District.  This was an exhibit from the 58th International Exhibition of Vienice Biennate.  The bridge represents humanity's universal values of friendship, faith, help, hope and wisdom, representing people coming together to build a better world.

Historically, the Venetians were prolific shipbuilders, turning out as many as three ships a day, to service their sea-faring careers, and there is still a military college nearby, operated by the Italian Navy.

EATING OUT - food and drink

With such diverse eating preferences and tastes, we did have a couple of issues during our stay.  My daughter is gluten intolerant, and has to be very careful not to eat wheat - not easy in the land of delicious pasta and pizza.  

So on the first night, we looked at reviews for inspiration and settled on the A1 Grill, which had five stars.  It wasn't my favourite, since I don't eat much red meat, but it was a hit with everyone else, who tucked into mixed grills with steak, chops, sausage and chicken, all washed down with Aperol Spritz which originated in the Veneto region(of which Venice is the capital city) in the late 19th/early 20h century.

We specifically looked for restaurants offering gluten free options, and found one which fitted the bill, with gluten free pasta a speciality.  We sat down and ordered our drinks while perusing the gluten-free menu.  Mulling over the menu with yet another Aperol Spritz (everyone drinks this in Venice!), we all opted for different pasta. Unfortunately we were told they no longer served GF pasta - despite it being on the menu, but she could have GF pizza.  We had all had pizza for lunch so awkwardly had to decide whether to leave and go somewhere else - when we already had our drinks - or find something else on the menu to eat. Interestingly, the Italian Celiac Association is the oldest in the world, since there are some three million celiacs in Italy, and schoolchildren are now tested for the disease. In the end we stayed, but the moral of the story is to always ask, and not rely on what it says on the menu.

In Burano, we found a lovely small family-owned restaurant, Trattoria da Primo, and it was wonderful to dine alfresco in the sunshine.  They had gluten free pasta, breadsticks and nibbles, so that more than made up for the previous evening. The Bellinis were rather good too!

Enjoying a Bellini in the Burano sunshine

We do have a little tradition on city breaks by always visiting a Hard Rock Cafe - to get the Unity Rewards and a penny stamped with the city. Our last evening was spent in the restaurant just off St Mark's Square - which was complete with a bright red Murano chandelier. The food is obviously fairly standard throughout the world, so no surprises there.

THE WEATHER

I remember from our previous visit - which was in October - that the day often starts off quite grey and misty but then clears up to brilliant sunshine around midday.  This was also the case for our March visit - although it was a little chillier in the mornings, so coats were required first thing in the morning and again in the evening.  But it was dry and often sunny, so much better than the miserable rain we left behind in England. Actually it was the perfect time of year to visit - looking back on previous photographs, there were many more crowds of people, and while it was quite busy in March, it wasn't overpowering.

Given the bad publicity tourists are currently getting in Spain, we found all of the staff in the hotel, restaurants and attractions to be very welcoming, warm and friendly.

By coincidence, since returning, I have watched a fabulous BBC television series called "Italy's Invisible Cities" which includes a fascinating episode on the history of Venice.  UK residents can watch it online here - it's well worth viewing.

Would I go back again? Of course... there are museums to see, and we didn't manage to get to a concert at the Vivaldi church.  Then there are the shops..........