Sensational Baby Boomers

Friday 14 July 2023

DOES TOURISM RUIN AREAS OF NATURAL BEAUTY?



Recently the governor of Lanzarote has announced she wants to ditch the island's dependence on British tourists.

This of course has caused uproar amongst the the 2.5 million tourists - more than half of them Brits - who travel to the Canary Islands for some much needed sunshine - something we are sorely deprived of in the Northern Hemisphere.

The island plan is to reduce the number of British tourists, but to "increase spending in the destination so that they generate greater wealth in the economy as a whole."

Growth would therefore be expected in the French, Italian, and Dutch markets.

So is it that the islands can attract more of the "wrong" kind of tourist - groups of hen/stag parties looking for cheap booze and rowdy nights out rather than those interested in culture and history?

Certain resorts in Spain and the Canaries have definitely encouraged them with English pubs and fish and chip restaurants, but it's hard to see how they're going to encourage more continental clientele. Or even whether the clubs, restaurants, hotel and bar owners will want to see their profits plummet.

So has tourism ruined places of outstanding natural beauty?

A couple of years ago I joined a "Going to Hawaii" Facebook Group before a trip there.  I was horrified to read several posts from locals telling tourists (not just Brits, I might add) to "stay away" because they were ruining those beautiful islands, with large corporations taking over the tourist attractions, and pushing out the locals.



When we eventually got there, however, the locals were very friendly, the islands were pristine and we saw no signs of damage.  All of the tours we took part in were focussed on ensuring that natural habitats were not disturbed and we there was no destruction to wildlife, nor rubbish left behind - even our sun lotion had to be ocean friendly!

That most definitely isn't the case in Santorini, recently voted the most popular holiday destination for Brits.  We have been visiting the island for almost 25 years and until the last few years, we have seen little change. Cruise ships docking into the port were limited some years ago, to cut down pollution but there are no high-rise hotels, and very few new builds, though tourism has certainly increased, along with fast food restaurants in the capital Thira having multiplied exponentially. Visitors flock to Oia to watch the stunning sunset - if you can get anywhere near to see it. Sadly, along with that come mountains of rubbish, especially plastic bottles.



And on our last visit, the sleepy village of Megalachori had a bus load of American tourists marching along the single track main road - something never seen before. While in the small beach resort of Perissa, two smart new beachside hotels seem to have overloaded the drainage system, creating quite an unpleasant smell. Loud pop music blares out from beach bars in Perivolous and also in the capital, which comes alive at night after the ships have departed.

As tourism has increased, so have the prices.  Happily though, this is not an island which encourages cheap booze and hen/stag parties, rather this is more a couples destination, which we hope will deter those looking for sun, sand and a bit of the other!

So are the Spanish right to start managing tourists, and does that mean that travel will be priced out of range for most families in the future?

We have always been responsible tourists - if that isn't a misnomer.  Yes, taking planes across the world pollutes the planet, but I can't help thinking that our airmile footprints are infinitesimally small when compared with industries in China, India, Russia and the US.  And we do try and look after our own local environment with recycling, eating less meat, and walking wherever possible.  

However, that said,I realise that we are a long way from being carbon neutral and many tourist countries rely on visitors for their own survival.  Will we be holidaying abroad again this year? Yes, but I hope we do so with respect for the local environments and populations.



SHARE:

Saturday 8 July 2023

A CITY BREAK TO PALMA, MAJORCA




After a long and miserable UK winter, we decided to seek a little sunshine (it's been a while since we managed to get a holiday together!) and book a short city break.  After debating on Italy (too expensive and Anne H will be visiting family there soon), Greece (Anne C going there later in the year) and other European destinations, we listened to friends' recommendations and booked Majorca.

Now Majorca is probably one of the place I have previously ignored as being famous mostly for Hen and Stag holidays, with my only previous experience of a holiday there being 50 years ago with my Mum and auntie!

But a fabulous surprise was in store for us.  First off, it's just a two-and-a-half hour flight for us flying from our local airport. It was also quite a special occasion, as Anne H had booked wonderful surprises for me as part of my pre-big-birthday celebrations coming this summer.

We fast-tracked through security and settled into the luxury of a travel lounge before departure, with a tasty breakfast, followed by a smooth and trouble-free flight.

Our accommodation was a two-bedroom apartment at the Borne Suites in the centre of the old town in Palma, which was perfect for exploring the many fabulous bars, restaurants, art galleries, shops, and was also very close to the marina. It was situated above the Hugo Boss store, with a perfect view of the sparkling fountain in the middle of the road! The apartment had all the necessary amenities, though we didn't do any cooking or food preparation - but we could have done if we had chosen to do so.




While the building looks modern, it is actually built on Roman remains - a fact which escaped us as we entered the building, but on leaving and stepping back out of the lift, it was disconcerting to see a glass floor featuring the stone remains beneath it - causing me to do a double-take and step back into the lift.

EXPLORING - Day One

Arrival day was spent getting our bearings and exploring.  We came upon a lovely little restaurant EG3 (very mixed reviews on Tripadvisor - maybe we were lucky!) and ordered our first sangria and delicious tapas.  The pavement restaurant was full - always a good sign - but we managed to squeeze onto a table.

Although it is a city, there is a beach nearby and a marina boasting some very impressive super yachts. There is plenty to do and see - if only to people watch - which we did a lot during our trip, over a cocktail or three. 

There are more independent boutiques than I have ever seen in one city, but beware - the shoes can be very expensive, and designer boutiques are not for those on a budget.  

We spent the evening wandering through many of the tiny backstreets, alleyways and courtyards.  There is an eclectic mix of architecture, from quaint gated courtyards to wide modern streets, but it was all completely accessible and felt very safe.

We wandered up to a central plaza - known as a patio in Spanish - opposite the City Hall and decided we just wanted a light bite for dinner.  The Hotel Cappuccino provided a perfect, delicious small plate. It is obviously part of a chain, since we did find another restaurant of the same name close to the magnificent cathedral.  Decor was very modern, boasting some impressive tiles, which we found were a feature in many other restaurants, thanks to the Moorish influence which pervades the city. We loved the place so much, we returned another day for a meal. It looks fabulous to stay there - but expensive!

City Hall

Hotel Cappuccino

Day Two

One of the first things we do in a new city is to get the hop on-hop off bus so we can scout where we want to go. Being over 65s meant we paid only 10 Euros for our tickets, and the bus took us around the city area into the suburbs, so we knew where we wanted to go for the rest of the holiday.

The bus took us through many of the residential streets and up to the Bellver Castle, with its impressive panoramic view, as you would expect from an island which has been invaded several times.  We didn't hop off this time, but you can read about it here.

Back at the terminus, there was a little market in the shadow of the cathedral, selling all manner of jewellery, trinkets, souvenirs and artworks - all well worth a browse.

Cocktails by the Marina

Dinner on the second evening was at THE place to be seen - the Mar de Nudos brasserie overlooking the marina.  Our pre-dinner cocktails (Porn Star Martini for me (my new favourite) and G&T for Anne) were delicious, but as we sat for dinner, it was obviously the place for all the beautiful people to congregate.  Nevertheless, the food - a mix of Mediterranean and Japanese cuisine - was perfect. It was also a great place for people watching, and for soaking in the atmosphere.

Day Three




Day three saw us visit the very impressive cathedral - actually called the Catedral-Basilica de Santa Maria - which is an absolute must for any visitor to Palma. We had pre-booked our tickets, enabling us to skip the queues, which had stretched around the side of the building by the time we exited.


We took hundreds of photographs in the cathedral, so difficult to show you all of them, but this one features the Dormitrion of the Virgin Mary who "fell asleep before she is taken up to Heaven, body and soul."  The exhibit is removed to the centre of the cathedral on the 15th August in celebration of the Feast of the Assumption of the Virgin.

The beautiful stained glass window, which perfectly aligns with another window at the exact opposite end of the cathedral


Construction of the Cathedral of Mallorca started in the 13th century and ended in the 1630s. The Cathedral is in the Mediterranean Gothic tradition, but over the centuries, it has incorporated cultural forms of the modern and contemporary periods.

The history of the Cathedral is intimately linked to the local monarchy. After the conquest of Madina Mayurqa in 1229, James I, who was king of Aragon and Count of Barcelona, ordered the consecration of the former great mosque to the Virgin Mary as a site for Christian worship and the building of a new church in the style of that time, using part of the site of an old mosque.


Interestingly at the end of the 19th Century there was a plan to make the cathedral more accessible and to remove many of the original Gothic features.  Its young bishop had met Antoni Gaudi in 1899, and two years later he moved to Majorca to take on the mammoth project.


Gaudí adapted the inner space of the Cathedral to meet those new liturgical and pastoral requirements. His renovations, promoted by the bishop, Pere Joan Campins, were carried out between 1904 and 1915. This liturgical restoration recovered space for the faithful and opened up the choir’s chancel, the bishop’s throne and the Chapel of the Holy Trinity.

While he succeeded in making those renovations, his radical plans did not meet with approval of the church and he finally left in 1914 (obviously after some major disagreements) to devote his time to the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona, while his assistant succeeded in finalising the changes. Apart from his influence in the cathedral, there is an interesting Gaudi-esque building in the city centre shopping area, adjacent to the Carrer de la Bosseria.



We moved from the Cathedral to the Royal Palace of Almudaina next door.  While the palace is the traditional summer residence of the Spanish royal family, it is also used for more formal royal events.

The royal castle has been the seat of power on the island possibly since Roman times.  Remains of the Arab citadel, which was mentioned in the 12th and 13th century references, can still be found in the layout of the present castle, which was built between 1305 and 1314 for James ll.



Lunch was at the Bocalto restaurant, featuring more tapas.  We spied a delicious old-fashioned bakery next door and planned to buy cakes for later, but in the end, we were too full, so gave it a miss. It's on my list of places to visit next time though!



The afternoon was spent browsing the impressive buildings and window-shopping the fabulous clothes and even more fabulous shoes, but you will be spoiled for choice.  There are of course some recognisable shops - Zara, H&M, and Massimo Dutti, but many more independent Spanish boutiques.

The beauty of our central apartment was that if we needed a rest or a coffee, we could just nip back and put our feet up for an hour - which we did.  

Dinner was another treat - a vegetarian tasting menu at the Botanic - a little haven tucked away in a back street, and entry through a large wrought iron gate, leading to a large secret garden.  The food here was exquisite.

Dinner at The Botanic

It is worth mentioning a small cafe/restaurant right next to our accommodation - Ombu.  We planned to have lunch or an evening meal there, though it never happened, but we did eat breakfast there every day.  We can highly recommend the creamy scrambled eggs or the pancakes with your cappuccino!

DAY 4

I think I have said before that I am a compulsive shopper, but Anne kept me in check, though I did manage to buy a jacket and a handbag.  For those who love jewellery, it is probably worth visiting the Mallorca Pearl Factory.  Although we didn't get there, there are plenty of shops in the city selling beautiful pearl jewellery from Majorca.  A lovely young assistant explained there are three qualities - two of which depend on how long the pearls have been in the sea, while the third are man-made in their local factory. 

There are also a number of small galleries showcasing interesting works of modern art - particularly if you move away from the main shopping area into the back streets.



For our last visit, we took a taxi to the Pueblo de Espanol, which we had seen from the bus n our second day.  This is a small "miniature village" - though the buildings are full size - which has been especially built to represent the different architectural styles on the island and in wider Spain.  From traditional Spanish buildings to the Moorish influences from the time Majorca was controlled by the Turks, we strolled through pretty streets decorated with beautiful tiles and flourishing orange trees.  It wasn't busy - and I felt more could have been made of it since it looked as if it was mainly used as an evening event centre.





We walked back through the shopping area, visiting El Cortes Ingles department store, which had all the well known designer brands of perfume/make-up and handbags etc, and Spanish clothing.

Dinner on our final evening was another treat and had been recommended by a friend.  We struggled to find the Tast Club since it was tucked away down a side street with very little signing.  It was another interesting building, which we entered through a cobbled yard and into a back door, through a library and eventually into the dining room.  Decor was reminiscent of a traditional gentleman's club - not that we have ever visited one! However, once again the food was outstanding (although the ice crushing machine - if that's what it was - was exceptionally noisy). Fortunately it didn't detract from the evening.


 Abaco Bar

We had been recommended to visit the Abaco Bar, and finally managed to get there on our last night. The place is just WOW! I wish we had gone sooner - such an interesting place hiding behind a huge wooden gate.  Originally a 17th century house - apparently the previous home of the noble Marcel family, the bar is situated in what was the carriage house and stables, but is now interestingly decorated with flowers and an abundance of fruit which would put a market garden to shame.  The garden was prettily decorated with tables, and candles, while the upstairs rooms - which originally housed the family, gave us a peek into life from another century.  Well worth spending an evening there! Please click the link to browse their website and see other wonderful gallery photos!



Day 5

Our final day meant we had to check out at 12, while our flight wasn't until 8 in the evening. (having said that, it was delayed an hour due to bad weather - yes it poured just as we got in the taxi to leave).  The weather, much like the rest of Europe at the end of May, was very mixed.  There were a few spots of rain throughout the week, but it was generally warm and sunny, interspersed with cloudy intervals, followed by an almightly cloudburst as we were leaving.

We headed to the marina again, where we had lunchtime cocktails (oh dear) but the friendly staff were in no hurry to move us on, so we moved onto lunch, and then eked out the time by finishing with coffee. We had left our luggage in the free lockers at the Borne accommodation, which was useful.

If I am being honest, I probably wouldn't have had Palma high on my bucket list, but we had a wonderful break, and Palma is lovely. Would I go back? Oh yes - I need to visit the pearl factory and the Cuevas del Drach in Porto Christo next time.



SHARE:

Friday 24 March 2023

MAKING MERRY IN MADRID


If you're looking for a city break in warmer climes, then look no further than Madrid - a perfect destination from the UK.  In a little over three hours you can be landing in Spain for sunshine, siesta and sangria.

Anne H flew from Liverpool airport - with convenient on site parking, then over the road into the terminal, so no messing with off-site parking or pickups.

Anne took the trip in October last Autumn, where the temperature was a very pleasant 29/30 degrees, staying at the central and very modern Carretas Apartments, which was central for everything she and her friend wanted to visit.

The balmy weather was pleasant to sit out in the evening and have a drink, and nottoo hot for walking around the city - something they did a lot!  With its beautiful boulevards, manicured parks and accessible museums, there was  plenty to pack into a short break.

She recommends pre-booking before departure, however, to ensure tickets are available - it tends to work out cheaper too, rather than buying ad hoc tickets on the day.

The Prado Art Museum showcases Spain's rich heritage and some of Europe's finest paintings, including those by Goya, but also features more modern artists.

An open-top bus is a must for virtually any city tour, and will give you an introduction to this wonderful city.  One and two day tickets are available and you can hop on and hop off wherever takes your fancy.

The Royal Palace of Madrid is a magnificent must-see.  Once the home of the Spanish Royal Family, it is still their official home but is now mostly used for state occasions.  With its ornate tapestries, golden thrones and magnificent staircases, construction finished in 1751.  There are 3000 rooms and its armory is one of the most significant collections of its kind.

The Royal Palace



Stunning frescoes and decor


Food and drink were very reasonably priced, with generous and delicious portions of tapas, accompanied by wine at £3.50 a glass. They ate three meals a day for 4 days, spending less than 300 euros, so very affordable.They headed to one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Madrid - La Latina - for the best food, though it can get very busy at weekends and in high season. 

La Valencia - with 5 types of sherry and tapas!

La Plateria

It is also a great place to stroll in the evenings, with tiny churches nestling side by side with apartments, piazzas and restaurants.


Plaza Mayor


Highlight of the week - apart from the trendy rooftop bar - was a Flamenco show at the Cueva de Lola sorry no photos were allowed!)  They chose a tiny basement venue with a small stage where dancers strut their stuff in time to the heady but romantic music.

Parque del El Retiro

A fabulous few days - and a quote from Anne that she would definitely go back!.



SHARE:

Friday 5 August 2022

THE GOOD, THE BAD AND THE EXCITING OF TRAVELLING POST-PANDEMIC

 


Flying post pandemic

Thank you for reading our bucket list last four blogs - our epic holiday taking in Las Vegas, Honolulu, the Hawaiian Island cruise and Los Angeles.  We can honestly say that it was one of the best holidays we have ever taken.  And we would love to thank the lovely people at our travel agents, North America Travel Service, who swapped and changed our bookings four times over the period of two years as lockdowns and restrictions thwarted our travels.

We travelled in May/June when we still had to take COVID tests to travel to the US.  It was incredibly stressful in the run-up to our flights, since we were worried that if we caught COVID, we would not be allowed to travel and may have lost our entire holiday.  We switched our work days for some weeks before, allowing us to virtually isolate for the two weeks prior to going away, and fortunately for us, our PCR tests taken the day before travel were both negative.  First hurdle successful!

But we weren't home free, because we had a day's flight and five days in Vegas and three days in Honolulu before we had to take another test to board the ship.  This was much trickier since we weren't isolating and were mixing with other visitors from all over the world.  We wore masks whenever we could, but in desert temperatures, it wasn't easy! Indoors wasn't much better in terms of stress levels since the buildings were all air-conditioned and we worried about circulating air.  We were also using Ubers to get about, hopping in and out of cars every day.

We had to take our cruise-recommended test via Zoom within two days to be allowed on board, and fortunately we were able to let out a huge sigh of relief when we were both negative.  From then on it was plain sailing - literally!




Airports in the UK were also reporting huge queues and cancelled flights, which was a worry for us in case we were caught up in the mayhem.. Our trip involved six flights each - from our regional airport to Heathrow, Heathrow to Las Vegas, Las Vegas to Honolulu, Honolulu to Los 
Angeles, Los Angeles to Heathrow, and Heathrow back to our regional airport.  The international flights were all with British Airways, and the Hawaiian flights with Hawaiian Airlines.  All were supposed to be checked in online, but not a single one worked, which flew me into a panic from day one. Fortunately, with the exception of Hawaiian Airlines, the check in desks were very helpful and found our seat bookings - though not without some difficulty.  In Honolulu, however, a very rude customer service advisor refused to help us and told us to do it ourselves.  We still couldn't check in but fortunately another advisor - who had just joined the airline from Delta - was helpful and eventually found our booking.

British Airways food was pretty good, except my gluten intolerant daughter's breakfast was just an apple and banana, while mine included a yoghurt - which doesn't contain gluten! Hawaiian was a fairly basic snack which was not to my taste - and no gluten free at all.

Travelling home was relatively easy though there was a bit of a wait to get through security at Heathrow as we transited back home.

Food was obviously an issue for someone who is gluten intolerant.  While venues, hotels and restaurants offer vegan and vegetarian options, someone with IBS, for whom gluten is not a lifestyle choice meant sustenance was often limited.



Our cruise on Norwegian Cruise Line's Pride of America was very good, with only a couple of quibbles.  Firstly it was absolutely freezing inside - so much so that we didn't watch any of the evening  entertainment because we hadn't taken jackets or cardigans, so spent most evenings in our cabin with the heater on, or on our balcony if we were in dock.  

While I am not a seasoned cruiser - this was only my third cruise, there were clothes washing facilities on board PandO and SilverSea cruises.  Bearing in mind we had been on holiday for 10 days when we boarded the ship, we needed some clean clothes - especially undies.  Embarrassingly we had to send our knickers to the laundry at a cost of $2 a pair ( too many to rinse through in the bathroom sink).

Again embarrassingly, the toilets kept backing up - presumably because people kept putting things in them that they shouldn't.  This happened three times in seven days when the loo just wouldn't flush.

The excursions we booked from the UK - despite having fairly good reviews - were mixed, with personal recommendations from friends being the most successful.  Our sunset flight over the Grand Canyon with Maverick helicopters was superb, and the highlight for me of our Las Vegas visit. 

Absolute highlight was Hawaiian Islands which were stunning.  While I had expected them to be pretty, I was unprepared for the absolutely breath-taking scenery and the wild beauty of the islands. We found the locals friendly and very protective of such a wonderful natural environment.  Seeing the Napili coastline from the ship was so awe-inspiring, it catches in my throat. 



And seeing dolphins swimming and dancing next to our catamaran off Maui was another highlight. Watching the sunset at Haleakala was amazing, and The Kalua Ranch on O'ahu where Jurassic Park, King Kong and Lost plus many others were filmed was also a visit to remember.  




I have mixed feelings about Pearl Harbour.  The SS Arizona memorial was very moving, but I found the main site too commercial, though I do realise they have to make money for upkeep of the site.  The ladies rest room, however, was disgusting, with no attendant for the huge number of visitors. The Lua dinner was recommended by a tour guide at our hotel, but it wasn't really what I had expected - maybe a plantation .... not a run-down holiday camp.  Note to self to do research first before committing the best part of $500 for two!



The hotels - The Venetian in Las Vegas, and the Hyatt Centric in Honolulu, were excellent, with comfortable beds and helpful staff. I won't mention again my disappointment with the hotel in Los Angeles.

But these are relatively minor complaints compared with the overall trip which is one I will remember forever.  I have been lucky enough to travel extensively during the past 10 years, and have seen some of the most amazing sights across Europe, Asia. Australia and the United States.  This was certainly one of the best.

SHARE:

Friday 29 July 2022

THE CITY OF ANGELS



Our final destination on our mega holiday was Los Angeles - the City of Angels. But leaving Hawaii was more of a wrench than we expected, since it had been a wonderful ten days of activities. And I know we will never be able to go again.

The contrast couldn't have been greater - from beautiful islands with a relatively laid-back way of life to the frantic pace of suburban Los Angeles - home to most of the movies and TV programmes with which we were familiar.

History


Los Angeles originally made its money, surprisingly, through oil - and there are currently 68 named oil fields in the greater LA area - 10 of which are deemed to be "giants" containing more than a billion gallons of oil. Residential areas sprang up around the oil fields to support the workers, but there is little tolerance now in the current climate for accidents, oil spills, and climate damage, so legal steps are being taken to ban re-working old mines.  Having said that, 542 new permits have recently been issued to open new oil fields and 1500 permits to rework old sites.

The movie age brought new investment to LA. Inventor of the movie camera, Thomas Edison, had tried to create a monopoly for the production of movies back east, so many producers in the 1920s and 30s had moved west to escape the confines of the Trust he set up to control the industry. Film makers demanded good weather all year round, and California was the perfect playground for film sets with year-round sunshine and away from the confines of the trust.

The Movies


We arrived late at night, so had booked a relatively easy time for our first full day in LA.  We discovered Lyft - which we don't have in the UK , and which operates just like Uber.  We wanted a gluten free restaurant for brunch, and our friendly driver took us to iHop (for gluten-free pancakes!) close to the Academy Museum of Motion Pictures, which would give us our first fix of the movie industry.

Academy Museum


We are huge movie fans in our house, so we immersed ourselves in some of our favourite films - right from the original Wizard of Oz - a childhood favourite of both of us - up to the modern day classics of Star Wars and Jaws.Every genre is catered for, and costumes were on display from such films as Edward Scissorhands and ET to the fabulous gowns worn by Oscar winners from a by-gone age.

Top of my list to see were Judy Garland's ruby slippers (I have a very cheap version of my own!) which were on display in a glass case. Artifacts and props from some of the earliest films to the latest blockbusters kept us entertained for the morning, before we headed off to explore LA.

Incidentally, there is a glass skywalk from the top floor to a viewing platform, but since we are terrified on heights, we gave that a wide berth!



The Grove and Farmers Market


Our walk took us directly to The Grove and the Farmers Market, where we discovered the fabulous Whole Foods store - which became our favourite go-to place to buy wonderfully fresh food, pre-packed snacks, fruits and salads. I wish we had something like this back home.

The Grove boasts restaurants, a tourist tram and designer shops, and has featured in many a celebrity movie, though Neiman Marcus was way out of our price range. We did, however, discover Ross -Dress for Less (a bit like our TK Maxx) which became our favourite store while we were there, and had much more affordable prices.




The Farmers Market boasts the largest number of dining options in LA, and it's easy to see why.  There's every kind of food stalls available, from American hot dogs to gourmet dishes from around the world.  They also hold foodie tours and events.  It was a perfect pit-stop for my gluten-free daughter to pick up some tasty treats, which seemed to be lacking elsewhere.

Hollywood Boulevard


However, we had booked a table for dinner at Hard Rock Cafe (don't we always?) on Hollywood Boulevard - the latter of which was a complete shock to the system.  Full of tourist shops selling all manner of tat to the street hawkers trying to push unwanted tickets, the sidewalk (pavements to us Brits) were dirty and those cherished stars were cracked and broken in some cases.  It was not what I had expected to see - I thought these would be regularly cleaned and easy to find our favourite celebrities.

Of course the area is a must-see but was such a disappointment, with beggars, drunks and crazies vying for attention with the street performers. Gauman's (now TCL) Chinese Theatre , scene of many Hollywood blockbusters, was busy with tourists looking for those famous foot and hand prints, though there are various stories as to who stepped first into wet concrete and set off the custom.



I did find the star of my early teenage crush, musician Peter Frampton, who deserted our home shores for mega-stardom in the US.  I have happy memories of seeing him perform live with his band "The Herd" in the late 60s.




All our tours for the three holiday destinations - with one exception - were booked before we left the UK, with Tripadvisor recommendations. On our second day we were picked up from our hotel for a full day's tour of LA.  Despite good ratings, the tour seemed to lack some organisation.  We were taken by minibus to Santa Monica where we were taken to a cafe (but the driver had not said a word to us until he told us to get off the bus!) and told to get a coffee while we were sorted into groups, then before the coffee arrived - we were put one another minibus.  The tour took in most of the main sights but felt rushed as for the most part we had only 30 or 40 minutes to look around some of the most iconic scenery in the world.




Santa Monica Pier


First stop was Santa Monica Pier and beach, taking in the end of Route 66, the 2,448 mile road which starts in Chicago and was the main migration route to the West Coast during the "Dust Bowl Years"  in the 1930s when dust storms and drought in the prairies devastated farming, and prospectors decided to try their luck out west.


Santa Monica Pier



Venice Beach


It was then onto Venice Beach, which had originally been built in a stylised version of Venice, with waterways and amusements, and marshland transformed into beaches and amusements. Unfortunately the original owner went bust and gradually the waterways disappeared until there is just one canal left.  Venice is now a playground for surfers and muscle men who strut their stuff on Muscle Beach - made famous by the most famous muscle man, Arnie Schwartzenegger.  The original Muscle Beach, however, had been based in Santa Monica.

However, on doing research when we returned, it turns out it that with a history of gangland activity, Venice has been recorded as the most dangerous beach in America for crime, shark attacks and surfing fatalities.  But during the day, it looked like a fairly bohemian community, and we didn't feel at all unsafe.

Griffith Park


In the afternoon we were taken to The Observatory at Griffith Park, with a very distant view of the iconic Hollywood sign.  What they had failed to mention when we booked the trip was that the building is open only Thursday to Sunday.  My daughter had previously visited LA and this was absolutely the one place she wanted to go.  The views of course are magnificent of the city, but The Observatory is a one-off so we were very disappointed not to be able to visit inside.  We were also disappointed to see the Hollywood sign was so far away, we could only see it through a zoom lens.




Bizarrely, there is a bronze head of film star James Dean, which had been commissioned by the man himself.  The 1955 film "Rebel without a cause" featured the Observatory heavily in both internal and external scenes from the movie, and helped put it on the international map.





Famous Sites 

We had a short stop on Rodeo Drive - but only just enough time to find a toilet and then get back on the bus, so no designer shopping for us!

The rest of the tour was just riding on the bus which was not what we wanted to do.  We drove down Melrose Avenue ( which looked a little down-at-heel), saw the hotel where Julia Roberts climbed down the fire escape in Pretty Woman, went by Angelina Jolie's home, and went past the Los Angeles sign until dropping off once again on Hollywood Boulevard - by which time we had had enough, and returned to the hotel. My daughter completed a less-than flattering TripAdvisor review, and we did get a partial refund for this tour. In reality, we should have taken two leisurely  tours instead of trying to pack everything into one day.



We stayed at Mr C in Beverley Hills, which was also a disappointment. Although the public rooms were stylish and comfortable, our room was above a 12 lane crossroad and extremely noisy with sirens up and down all night.  What was once an elegant room was starting to look tired with dirty, ill-fitting curtains, frayed leather furniture and only one chair on the balcony, so not a place I would recommend. They also debited my credit card a week after I arrived home - but this had already been paid by my travel agent, and my receipt on leaving confirmed there had been nothing to pay. 

The city is a sprawling metropolis so difficult and expensive to get about easily if you don't have a car.  

Being completely honest, LA was a disappointment from what I had expected - glitz, glamour and impeccable customer service were decidedly lacking.  But maybe I had too high expectations after such an amazing time in Hawaii. After three weeks away from home, I think we were also a little jaded.

I'm glad I went and saw it for myself, but I won't be going back.


Wall art on Melrose

SHARE:
© Sensational Baby Boomers

This site uses cookies from Google to deliver its services - Click here for information.

Blogger Template Created by pipdig