BACK TO MY HAPPY PLACE

Perissa Beach

Much has been written in the media this year about anti-tourism (particularly British tourists) with demonstrations across Spain, the Spanish Islands and Greece - particularly Santorini and Mykonos.

In fact I have just read an article stating that tourism to Spain was actually up 12% from January to July 2024, with a staggering 53.4 million international visitors in seven months.  Greece also saw a 16% increase in visitors during the first six months of 2024. In response, Santorini tourism chiefs have announced a limit on cruise ships docking at any one time, and will impose a 20 Euro levy on cruise visitors and a "lodging tax" during peak months.

Regular followers of our blog will know that Santorini is my happy place, where I have been holidaying with  my family for more than 20 years. So I was a little apprehensive this year that we would be met by hostile and disapproving locals.

To be fair to those Santorini citizens, I have previously written about some of the issues (see here) and these haven't gone away, however, the worst of the problems are concentrated on the western-facing side of the island.

The amazing Santorini sunset

The busiest resorts facing the stunning sunsets - Thira (Fira), Firostefani, Imerovigli and Oia (pronouned EEya) certainly have the most beautiful views, are the most crowded, but are also the most expensive, and not best suited for those who have mobility problems. (Incidentally - you can pay up to 1000Euros+ a night in some hotels.)

There are other equally lovely, but different resorts on the island, particularly Perissa, Perivolos and Kamari, situated to the south east and southwest. And these are the resorts with an actual beach, rather than accommodation carved into or built on the side of the cliffs overlooking the volcano.

Perissa Beach at dusk

I chatted to our Greek friends about business this summer and most admitted that although they had been quite busy this year, trade was down on previous years.  There could be a number of reasons for this - the cost of living rises, worry about the future (particularly from the Brits with a new government, or the Americans with an election looming), bad press about tourism, or a move away from European holidays.

Our friends also said that their favourite tourists were actually the British, despite the fact that they have welcomed visitors from all over the world - so someone actually likes us! The Greek people are wonderfully friendly and open, the food is delicious and the sun is hot.  What's not to like?

The island mostly attracts couples who tend to visit for a few days and then hop to another island. Hotels also have very little in the way of children's' clubs for entertainment. And since the island is volcanic, the beach resorts don't have soft white sands, rather grey gritty sand with rocky outcrops. Those visitors who stay for just a few days, however, are missing a trick, since there is plenty to see, lots of water sports in which to indulge, fabulous shops, delicious food and interesting museums.

Having said about the overcrowding problems with Thira and Oia - they are, in fact, the two must see places to visit to watch the stunning sunset, so be prepared for the crowds, find a restaurant with a view and expect to pay for the privilege.

Santorini also has a fascinating history, having been attacked several times over the past centuries due to its strategic Mediterranean position, and consequently has a number of castles and look-out posts which helped to protect it by giving early warning of invasion.

And if you're not put off by he negative publicity, the rest of the island has some wonderful places to visit and are less crowded:

 Megalachori

Megalachori - a lovely inland village (one of our favourites) with a picturesque square featuring restaurants and beautiful jewellery shops.

The ruins of Akroteri

Akroteri - the prehistoric village which dates back as far as 4500BC and which eventually became an important trading post strategical.ly places between Cyprus and the Minoan civilisation in Crete. It now resides beneath a warehouse-like structure to protect the ruins from the environment.

The Volcano and Hot Springs - You can visit the volcano which is still live.  It was the eruption 3000 years ago which blew out part of the island, creating its unique shape with its towering 1000foot cliffs.  The tsunami it created completely destroyed the advanced Minoan civilisation in Crete.  Popular folk law questions whether this is the location of the lost city of Atlantis. 

Emporio - a medieval castle sands in the centre of the tiny streets with unbelievably steep steps leaving to teeny tiny doorways! Health and Safety would have a fit!

One of the many churches in Emporio

Pyrgos - the highest point on Santorini with a stunning panoramic view of the whole island.

Santo Wines - the famous Santorini wine is made here - if you go at the right time you can see the giant vats where wine is trampled (I'm sure they also use more modern wine press methods too!) There is a fabulous view of the sunset, where you can enjoy a meal or a wine tasting.  It isn't the cheapest place though!

Santo Wines

Sunset Cruise - There are a number of boat trips to watch the sunset on various sea-going crafts from catamarans to traditional boats - some with food and drink provided, some can even be hired privately.  Most of the cruise ships also depart at sunset, and it's quite a sight to see the ships with their garland lights as they set sail for their next destination.

Sailaway from Santorini

Ancient ruins - situated at the top of Mount Vouno, it dates back to the 8th century BC and gave a panoramic view of the island and its position in the Aegean Sea.  It features the remains of two cemeteries, a market, baths, both pagan and christian churches and a theatre. It can be accessed from either Perissa or Kamari - though the climb is much easier from Kamari.

You can read more about the resorts and villages of Santorini here.

One thing we haven't mentioned are the cats. (We love cats!) They are not deemed to be a nuisance, and no-one seems to mind if you feed them.  We often saved some of our evening meals to take for the local strays - and when we didn't have anything, we bought cat biscuits from the local supermarket. They too are very friendly, and we fell in love with a beautiful white kitty which used to hang out at the beach. We went so far as to Google if you could bring a Greek cat home.

A family of cats in Megalachori

And just so you know how much I love Greece and my Greek friends, I have also been learning to speak Greek for the past several years (and yes, it is hard!)

Σας ευχαριστώ που διαβάσατε!

STAYCATIONS IN THE UK

The United Kingdom is rich in history and geographic diversity.  I believe we don't truly appreciate the beauty of our own country - probably because the weather is so unpredictable.  However, this year we have both taken mini breaks (in addition to our trips to try and find some sunshine) to take advantage of what we have to offer on home turf.

While we have both enjoyed trips to Italy earlier this year, Anne C headed south with her family to Portsmouth for a long weekend.

The reason for this was to visit the Naval Dockyard,Naval Dockyard, which houses the iconic Mary Rose, HMS Victory and HMS Warrior.

Those of us old enough to remember the raising of the Mary Rose - the flagship of King Henry V111's fleet in 1987 watched in awe as the ship, which had rested on the sea bed in The Solent for more than 400 years, was lifted from its watery grave and gently transported to its new home." We last visited Portsmouth around 20 years ago when the ship was being patiently sprayed with a mixture of wax and water to preserve what was left of her. We had vowed to return when the restoration was complete." She said.

The Mary Rose

The remains of the Mary Rose

The new museum now houses a stunning array of artefacts, painstakingly restored and displayed with the history of each piece.  While only half of the original ship remains - the half that was preserved in the embedded in the silt (the other half had rotted away under the relentless tides), the museum has replicated the other half to show what it would have looked like.

It is still carefully monitored, however, in a climate controlled environment with special subdued lighting depicting sunrise, daytime and sunset.

Photo above is of the skeleton of an archer, while the picture below shows a reconstruction of how he would have looked .  To note the hands, feet and some ribs have been added in silicone as there were no original bones.

Of the thousands of bones collected, specialists created 179 full bodies, although more than 500 men were aboard.  While it is impossible to know their names, other than that of the captain Sir George Carew and a commander of soldiers, Roger Grenville, experts have reconstructed faces from skeletons, even determining from where they originated based on isotopes in the teeth, sulfur, carbon, oxygen and nitrogen values in the bones.  

Reconstructions have identified the ship's cook, a carpenter and one of the archers based on tools and equipment found near the remains, but also by analysing muscles and teeth. They have even reconstructed the ship's dog, Hatch (below), which is probably the most complete skeleton.  His remains were trapped between several chests, near the hatch (hence the name) which shielded him and prevented the bones dispersing.  

HMS Victory

But the site also houses the second HMS Victory, another flagship vessel launches in 1765, some 200 years after the Mary Rose.  She didn't suffer the same fate as the Mary Rose, or indeed her predecessor, also called HMS Victory, and remains largely as she did almost 300 years ago.  It is interesting to see the design changes during that time.  

"Yes I stood on the spot where Nelson fell during the Battle of Trafalgar against the French - marked by a brass plaque on the floor, though he died later in the sick quarters, and his body was preserved in brandy  (not rum because the it was the sailors' tipple - for which they were each given half a pint a day!) before being interred in St Paul's Cathedral in London." Said Anne.

The portrait of Nelson's lover, Lady Emma Hamilton, which hung by his bed.  Both were married to other people at the time of his death - the Vice Admiral to Frances Herbert Woolward and Emma to Lord William Hamilton.                                                           

The spot where Admiral Nelson fell after being hit - but he died after he was taken below decks.

Many of the saying we use today have their heritage in sailing.  "Three square meals a day" comes from the fact that the men were all well fed and food was served on square wooden platters. "Long shot" was when a shot over a great distance made an impact.  "Feeling blue" was when a captain or officer died at sea, the crew would fly a blue flat and paint a blue band along the ship's hull.  "Taken aback" was describing when the wind blew the sails of a ship flat, or back against the supporting structure.  "Toe the line" was for Royal Navy inspections where their bare feet had to line up with the seams of the planks.

Nelson's bed on board HMS Victory

The ship carried 821men, 51 of whom were killed in battle, 11 died of their wounds and 91 were wounded and survived.  The enormous ships anchor needed 260 men to haul up the anchor, which weighed up to 10 tons and could take up to six hours.  I mention all of these facts because it is almost unbelievable how hard life must have been on board ship, and how brave and courageous those early sailors were.

HMS Warrior

Next on the list was HMS Warrior, a steam-powered, armour plated ship which actually had very similar living quarters to the Victory below decks.  She was built in 1859, but was converted into an oil jetty in 1927, where she remained until 1979.

Said Anne: "It's true to say that I have always been fascinated by history, and coming from a military family, was surrounded by memorabilia from an early age.  But even for someone not interested in the nuts and bolts, seeing how the men lived below decks and defended our shores is fascinating."

There are lots of quizzes and things for the children to look out for if you're going with the family.  And there's even a mini sailing lagoon.

The rest of the weekend away was a disappointment to say the least.  The weather turned rainy - what a surprise - and we spent a wet and miserable final day at nearby Southsea. Had it been a nice day, we might have enjoyed a day on the beach, but British seasides in the rain are depressing, unless you enjoy amusement arcades and pubs (sorry I don't). We did visit the small Aquarium to get out of the rain, and there is also a nearby WW11 museum.  

Other things to do in Portsmouth include the Gun Wharf Quays shopping outlet (I wasn't allowed to go there!) and the Spinacre Tower (I hate heights!) Or take a boat ride around the harbour.

I won't recommend our hotel.  We had deliberately booked a cheap and cheerful hotel to rest our weary heads, since we had planned to be out during the day.  I won't mention it, but suffice to say it wasn't that cheap and definitely not cheerful, though the bed was comfortable, and the water hot.

However, we did meet up with a lovely young couple we met on holiday last year in Santorini, who took us to their local favourite cafe for brunch. Hopefully we will meet up in Greece again later this year.

FALLING IN LOVE WITH VENICE (BUT NOT THE SEAGULLS)

Those of you who follow my personal account, rather than our travel blog, may remember that I celebrated (if that's the correct word!) my 70th birthday last year.  My gift from my wonderful daughter was a family trip to Venice for March of this year (2024).

The trip included my husband, daughter and her partner.  To say my husband didn't want to go is an understatement.  He doesn't like travelling at the best of times, which is why I often travel with my best friend Anne or my daughter.  He was not happy even as we sat on the plane for take-off.  But I have to report that Venice worked her magic on him and he came back converted ("But I don't want to go back".)

What's not to love about Venice? It is such an fascinating city, both architecturally and historically.  Anne and I went there in 2019 (see our previous blog) but only for a day as we were sailing the Adriatic Sea on a cruise, and I vowed to go back and spend some time there.

THE HOTEL

We took an EasyJet holiday and stayed at the stunning San Cassiano Calle del Rosa situated on the Grand Canal, near the famous Rialto Bridge.  A fabulous old-style palazzo, we were given the choice of a ground floor room or one two floors up, but there was no lift.  Because I have a bad back, we opted for the downstairs room - probably the only bedroom on the ground floor and was much larger than average. 

Our Room at the Hotel San Cassiano Calla del Rosa

The hotel is somewhat famous for being the home of the Italian artist Giacomo Favretto (1848-87) who painted everyday scenes from his home city. Prior to this, I have been unable to find out who owned the building, which would probably have been a wonderfully palatial home to one of the rich merchants in the distant past.

Today's decor pays tribute to its historic past, lavishly decorated with reds and golds, and filled with extravagant artifacts and glassware - more on that later. 

The Poultry Seller by Giacomo Favretto

Breakfast in the hotel was a very reasonable 8 Euros with as much as you could eat, with a choice of bacon, egg, sausage and toast, cereals, pastries and continental selections. Although there is no restaurant for lunch or evening dining, snacks are available and there is a bar, but since we were out all day, it wasn't a problem. The breakfast room, however, had a small balcony with a fabulous view of the Grand Canal.

Our Hotel Balcony

TRANSPORT

I had paid for a private water taxi via Venicelink from the airport, since we didn't know where we were going, or how to get the bus or vaporetto. Most hotels on the canals have their own mooring, so we didn't have to wander round looking for ours. It was quite expensive at 240 Euros for the return, but since we were leaving for the homeward journey at 4 am, I figured I didn't want to be trying to find the bus station or waiting for a bus at that time.  It turned out to be the best thing I did, since on departure morning, the weather was exceptionally foggy, and our boatman told us it was too bad to take us all the way to the airport.  Instead he took us to the nearby bus station, where a waiting Mercedes private minibus whisked us comfortably through the fog in plenty of time.

HISTORY

On our first visit, Anne and I had visited the Doge's Palace - the political, cultural, military and judicial centre, now a museum incorporating several buildings, which has pride of place in the main piazza overlooking the lagoon. The first building was built in the 1100s but was destroyed by fire and rebuilt during the 14th and 15th centuries.  I won't go into the long and varied history history, but you can read via the link here which will tell you all you need to know. Suffice to say, Venice was invaded several times over the centuries, by Arabs, Genoese and Ottoman Turks, since it occupies a strategic maritime position, which brought trade and wealth to the city.(Interesting fact Casanova was the only person to escape from the prison where he had been imprisoned inside the palace). Randomly, we also went into the Torture Museum, which appealed to the macabre member of our party!  All I can say about that is that there were some very sadistic and devious people back in the day. It is situated within the Doge's Buildings and links to the prisons in the palace.

We didn't go in the main palace this time, instead heading for St Mark's Basilica, (Basilica San Marco) which we missed last time.We chose to buy tickets in advance here, since there are often long queues, especially in high season.

The Doge's Palace

The construction of the first church on the site was commissioned in 828 when the relics of St Mark were brought to Venice from Egypt. This was done by the Doge (the then head of state of the republic), whose palace was next door, the Palazzo Ducale. During an uprising in 976, the church burned down completely, after which rebuilding the remains of the church started two years later. 

Inside St Mark's Basillica

The current building – the construction of which dates back to 1063 – has been extended on almost all sides. During the extensions and renovations in the following centuries, the wooden beams were replaced with stone for durability. However, while the stones are covered with marble and sculptures, you can longer see the original rough, underlying constructions. 

The Piazza San Marco is where all the action happens, though unfortunately during our visit, there was a lot of construction and maintenance work, with bare pipes and standing water.  Normally in summer, this is a hive of activity, though the cafes were still doing business around the edges. The 99' bell tower, situated at the corner of the square was built in the early 16th century, on the site of a lighthouse dating back to the 9th century. Tickets are available to visit, but since I hate heights, I gave this one a miss.

The bell tower situated are the corner of the piazza.

PLACES TO SEE

We had been advised by a friend to visit the Hotel Danieli for a coffee - not to stay there, although I would have loved to, but at between 1-2,000 Euros a night, it is totally out of our price range. Instead, we opted for drinks and a hot chocolate.  This superb hotel overlooks the lagoon, with its own mooring.  What a treat  - the stairway looked like something from a Disney musical, and the drinks were accompanied by crisps, chocolate and savouries.  Well worth a visit (note if you watch Netflix, there's a scene in the current mini-series, Ripley, featuring the hotel, where the character's father is staying).

The Hotel Danieli

No visit to Venice is complete without a ride in a gondola, and there were many gondoliers to choose from.  We picked up ours outside the Zara shop, and the ride was magical. Our gondola cost 90 Euros for about 40 minutes. My husband worked in construction, so he was interested in the construction of the buildings and how well they have endured being under water.  

A gondola on the Grand Canal with the Rialto Bridge in the background.

The Floating City is actually a series of around 120 islands, standing on marsh and salt lands.  To build on such unstable land, early builders drove millions of piles of wood into the earth at 17cms apart before constructing concrete on top and then brick buildings on top of that.  Brick is lighter than stone, and the buildings had many arches to carry the load - giving Venice its trademark look.  The wood hasn't rotted since it is permanently under water, starved of oxygen. Authorities regularly monitor the canals and rivers to look for damage caused by silt which is churned up by the very busy river traffic. There are some fascinating videos on You Tube which you might be interested to watch for more detailed information on the history of the construction of the city. And yes, some of the sewage finds its way into the canals, particularly during high season with more visitors and lower water levels.  However, recent investment in sewage treatments and strict rules for hotels and restaurants about waste disposal and septic tanks continue to improve the situation.  And although some people swim in the lagoon area, I wouldn't risk it!

Note the cherry beak!

I know you want to hear about the seagulls - which are definitely to avoid! The food in Italy is divine, and so is the galato, so we couldn't not indulge.  I ordered my pistachio, mango and cherry gelato as we walked away from the lagoon, when I was attacked from above by the biggest seagull I have ever seen.  I thought something had fallen on my head as the gull dive-bombed from above and stuck its beak in my icy treat.  Fortunately its claws didn't break the skin on my face, but I had a very pink cheek for the rest of the day. It was only the following day when we saw the signs advising tourists not to eat outside.  I'm glad it was only gelato and not a meal from one of the pavement cafes by the lagoon!

Glass blowing at Murano

We had booked excursions for day three (there are many from which to choose), taking in Murano and Burano islands.  Again, I had previously visited Murano, but thought the men would be interested in watching the glass blowing.  It is worth mentioning that every building we went into  - our hotel, restaurants, cafes and tourist shops were full of Murano glass lamps, chandeliers, glasses and nick-nacks. They also ship all over the world, but as every piece is hand-made it is very expensive, and will probably become more so since it is becoming a dying art.  The glass-smiths usually hand down their skills and their jobs to members of their families, though of course the conditions are not ideal for the younger generation, because of the intense heat - which is much worse in summer. Unfortunately they do not allow you to photograph and stunning finished pieces in their shop, but everywhere we went had a Murano chandelier or lamp!

A colourful Murano chandelier

A more intricate Murano chandelier

Burano was were I particularly wanted to go, since we hadn't had time previously, and it didn't disappoint.  Pretty fishermen's houses in glorious colours met us as we stepped from the boat.  The tradition of painting their houses was so that the returning seafarers could see their homes as they sailed back into port after long days away at sea.  Once again, though, fishing as a career is dying in Venice, so many of the homes have come up for sale in recent years - with the stipulation that if they are re-painted, it must be in the same colours.

Burano is also famous for lace-making, and there is a museum of beautiful lace just off the main square.  There are also pretty lace tops and homewares to buy.

Coloured houses in Burano

There is still a thriving fish market, however,back on the main island, which we stumbled upon by accident.  We found sea bass, sea bream, red mullet, lots of crabs and shellfish.  Next door, fresh flowers and vegetables created a colourful display with chillies, artichokes and tomatoes.

Fish Market

Flower Market

TRANSPORT

Getting around Venice is relatively easy.  There are plenty of water buses, or vaporettos, and water taxis to get around, but we walked everywhere, since there was always something to see.  Our hotel meant crossing the famous Rialto Bridge to reach the lagoon area - which we did several times a day! The bridge itself is also fascinating, particularly for its construction, which has no central support - and also for the fact that it is a small shopping centre! 

It was also fun to see how all the supplies come in from the mainland by boat.  We had a laugh seeing the ASOS parcels piled up on the DHL barge!

The famous Rialto Bridge

The trips to Morano and Burano were organised, so we got lots of information from the guide, but I would have liked to have spent longer in Burano, particularly since the weather was sunny and warm. (Did you know the word "quarantine" comes from the Italian number 40 "quaranta".  This is because sea farers who came back to Venice were required to spend 40 days on the island of Lazzaretto Vecchio after their travels, if they showed signs the black plague. Those infected were transferred to Poveglia ("Death Island"), and there are tales of medical experiments and painful deaths. Apparently because of this, and those who died there in extreme pain, it is believed by some to be the most haunted island in the world.  Access to the island is forbidden, but we sailed past it.

The stunning bridge artwork by Lorenzo Quinn

We also saw the "Building Bridges" artwork by Italian artist Lorenzo Quinn depicting six human hands which span the entrance to the basin of the Arsenale, a complex of 12th Century shipyards in the Castello District.  This was an exhibit from the 58th International Exhibition of Vienice Biennate.  The bridge represents humanity's universal values of friendship, faith, help, hope and wisdom, representing people coming together to build a better world.

Historically, the Venetians were prolific shipbuilders, turning out as many as three ships a day, to service their sea-faring careers, and there is still a military college nearby, operated by the Italian Navy.

EATING OUT - food and drink

With such diverse eating preferences and tastes, we did have a couple of issues during our stay.  My daughter is gluten intolerant, and has to be very careful not to eat wheat - not easy in the land of delicious pasta and pizza.  

So on the first night, we looked at reviews for inspiration and settled on the A1 Grill, which had five stars.  It wasn't my favourite, since I don't eat much red meat, but it was a hit with everyone else, who tucked into mixed grills with steak, chops, sausage and chicken, all washed down with Aperol Spritz which originated in the Veneto region(of which Venice is the capital city) in the late 19th/early 20h century.

We specifically looked for restaurants offering gluten free options, and found one which fitted the bill, with gluten free pasta a speciality.  We sat down and ordered our drinks while perusing the gluten-free menu.  Mulling over the menu with yet another Aperol Spritz (everyone drinks this in Venice!), we all opted for different pasta. Unfortunately we were told they no longer served GF pasta - despite it being on the menu, but she could have GF pizza.  We had all had pizza for lunch so awkwardly had to decide whether to leave and go somewhere else - when we already had our drinks - or find something else on the menu to eat. Interestingly, the Italian Celiac Association is the oldest in the world, since there are some three million celiacs in Italy, and schoolchildren are now tested for the disease. In the end we stayed, but the moral of the story is to always ask, and not rely on what it says on the menu.

In Burano, we found a lovely small family-owned restaurant, Trattoria da Primo, and it was wonderful to dine alfresco in the sunshine.  They had gluten free pasta, breadsticks and nibbles, so that more than made up for the previous evening. The Bellinis were rather good too!

Enjoying a Bellini in the Burano sunshine

We do have a little tradition on city breaks by always visiting a Hard Rock Cafe - to get the Unity Rewards and a penny stamped with the city. Our last evening was spent in the restaurant just off St Mark's Square - which was complete with a bright red Murano chandelier. The food is obviously fairly standard throughout the world, so no surprises there.

THE WEATHER

I remember from our previous visit - which was in October - that the day often starts off quite grey and misty but then clears up to brilliant sunshine around midday.  This was also the case for our March visit - although it was a little chillier in the mornings, so coats were required first thing in the morning and again in the evening.  But it was dry and often sunny, so much better than the miserable rain we left behind in England. Actually it was the perfect time of year to visit - looking back on previous photographs, there were many more crowds of people, and while it was quite busy in March, it wasn't overpowering.

Given the bad publicity tourists are currently getting in Spain, we found all of the staff in the hotel, restaurants and attractions to be very welcoming, warm and friendly.

By coincidence, since returning, I have watched a fabulous BBC television series called "Italy's Invisible Cities" which includes a fascinating episode on the history of Venice.  UK residents can watch it online here - it's well worth viewing.

Would I go back again? Of course... there are museums to see, and we didn't manage to get to a concert at the Vivaldi church.  Then there are the shops..........