Much has been written in the media this year about anti-tourism (particularly British tourists) with demonstrations across Spain, the Spanish Islands and Greece - particularly Santorini and Mykonos.
In fact I have just read an article stating that tourism to Spain was actually up 12% from January to July 2024, with a staggering 53.4 million international visitors in seven months. Greece also saw a 16% increase in visitors during the first six months of 2024. In response, Santorini tourism chiefs have announced a limit on cruise ships docking at any one time, and will impose a 20 Euro levy on cruise visitors and a "lodging tax" during peak months.
Regular followers of our blog will know that Santorini is my happy place, where I have been holidaying with my family for more than 20 years. So I was a little apprehensive this year that we would be met by hostile and disapproving locals.
To be fair to those Santorini citizens, I have previously written about some of the issues (see here) and these haven't gone away, however, the worst of the problems are concentrated on the western-facing side of the island.
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The busiest resorts facing the stunning sunsets - Thira (Fira), Firostefani, Imerovigli and Oia (pronouned EEya) certainly have the most beautiful views, are the most crowded, but are also the most expensive, and not best suited for those who have mobility problems. (Incidentally - you can pay up to 1000Euros+ a night in some hotels.)
There are other equally lovely, but different resorts on the island, particularly Perissa, Perivolos and Kamari, situated to the south east and southwest. And these are the resorts with an actual beach, rather than accommodation carved into or built on the side of the cliffs overlooking the volcano.
I chatted to our Greek friends about business this summer and most admitted that although they had been quite busy this year, trade was down on previous years. There could be a number of reasons for this - the cost of living rises, worry about the future (particularly from the Brits with a new government, or the Americans with an election looming), bad press about tourism, or a move away from European holidays.
Our friends also said that their favourite tourists were actually the British, despite the fact that they have welcomed visitors from all over the world - so someone actually likes us! The Greek people are wonderfully friendly and open, the food is delicious and the sun is hot. What's not to like?
The island mostly attracts couples who tend to visit for a few days and then hop to another island. Hotels also have very little in the way of children's' clubs for entertainment. And since the island is volcanic, the beach resorts don't have soft white sands, rather grey gritty sand with rocky outcrops. Those visitors who stay for just a few days, however, are missing a trick, since there is plenty to see, lots of water sports in which to indulge, fabulous shops, delicious food and interesting museums.
Having said about the overcrowding problems with Thira and Oia - they are, in fact, the two must see places to visit to watch the stunning sunset, so be prepared for the crowds, find a restaurant with a view and expect to pay for the privilege.
Santorini also has a fascinating history, having been attacked several times over the past centuries due to its strategic Mediterranean position, and consequently has a number of castles and look-out posts which helped to protect it by giving early warning of invasion.
And if you're not put off by he negative publicity, the rest of the island has some wonderful places to visit and are less crowded:
Megalachori - a lovely inland village (one of our favourites) with a picturesque square featuring restaurants and beautiful jewellery shops.
Akroteri - the prehistoric village which dates back as far as 4500BC and which eventually became an important trading post strategical.ly places between Cyprus and the Minoan civilisation in Crete. It now resides beneath a warehouse-like structure to protect the ruins from the environment.
The Volcano and Hot Springs - You can visit the volcano which is still live. It was the eruption 3000 years ago which blew out part of the island, creating its unique shape with its towering 1000foot cliffs. The tsunami it created completely destroyed the advanced Minoan civilisation in Crete. Popular folk law questions whether this is the location of the lost city of Atlantis.
Emporio - a medieval castle sands in the centre of the tiny streets with unbelievably steep steps leaving to teeny tiny doorways! Health and Safety would have a fit!
Pyrgos - the highest point on Santorini with a stunning panoramic view of the whole island.
Santo Wines - the famous Santorini wine is made here - if you go at the right time you can see the giant vats where wine is trampled (I'm sure they also use more modern wine press methods too!) There is a fabulous view of the sunset, where you can enjoy a meal or a wine tasting. It isn't the cheapest place though!
Sunset Cruise - There are a number of boat trips to watch the sunset on various sea-going crafts from catamarans to traditional boats - some with food and drink provided, some can even be hired privately. Most of the cruise ships also depart at sunset, and it's quite a sight to see the ships with their garland lights as they set sail for their next destination.
Ancient ruins - situated at the top of Mount Vouno, it dates back to the 8th century BC and gave a panoramic view of the island and its position in the Aegean Sea. It features the remains of two cemeteries, a market, baths, both pagan and christian churches and a theatre. It can be accessed from either Perissa or Kamari - though the climb is much easier from Kamari.
You can read more about the resorts and villages of Santorini here.
One thing we haven't mentioned are the cats. (We love cats!) They are not deemed to be a nuisance, and no-one seems to mind if you feed them. We often saved some of our evening meals to take for the local strays - and when we didn't have anything, we bought cat biscuits from the local supermarket. They too are very friendly, and we fell in love with a beautiful white kitty which used to hang out at the beach. We went so far as to Google if you could bring a Greek cat home.
And just so you know how much I love Greece and my Greek friends, I have also been learning to speak Greek for the past several years (and yes, it is hard!)
Σας ευχαριστώ που διαβάσατε!
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