A DAY AT DOWNTON ABBEY

What could be more quintessentially British than a bright warm sunny day and a trip to a magnificent country house?And if that country house is Downton Abbey, how perfect would that be?

Of course Downton Abbey is the fictitious Yorkshire home of Lord and Lady Grantham, though in actual fact, filming is at the country home of the 8th Earl and Countess of Carnarvon at the magnificent Highclere Castle, more than 200 miles away in Berkshire. 

Anne C here....My Christmas present from my daughter was a two-day minibreak with National Holidays (more of that later), including a trip to Highclere Castle.

This was a perfect gift for such a Downton fan as myself, and it did not disappoint.  We joined the tour on a glorious day in early May, and our first view of the house was breath-taking, and so familiar we almost felt as if we knew the house.

We were allowed in in small groups and were met by friendly volunteers who explained that we were free to follow the previous group but at our leisure.  The only rules were that there was to be no photography inside and no food or drink, since this is still very much a private home with precious antique furniture, paintings and artefacts.

We wandered through the famous drawing room with its red velvet sofas, so very familiar on the show for pre-dinner drinks and family get-togethers.  The famous dining room with its dark ancestral paintings was quite austere, and being honest, a little spooky!

OUR TOUR

Our guides told us that although the food on the set was real - brought in from the catering trucks parked outside - they did not eat it, since every angle had to be shot several times, so it wouldn't work if the plates were almost empty and then full again!  In fact the only drink allowed on set was water, though the props man had special permission to have coloured water to use as red or white wine when the family took their drinks. Having said that, the late Dame Maggie Smith, who played the Dowager Countess, was allowed to have a cup of tea in the ladies' sitting room.  This would have been the room  where the ladies met early in the day, while they still wore their dressing gowns and before putting on their make-up for the day.

Another little snippet from the guides on the day - since the house is almost 400 years old, there's a lot of maintenance to contend with, and when it rains, the roof leaks - so there are buckets and pans placed strategically throughout the house.

In the series, the gentlemen retired to the smoking room after dinner, this was never actually filmed and the room was used to store furniture not needed.

Upstairs we were treated to a peek in the Countess's bedroom, on to Lady Mary's room where Turkish diplomat Kemal Panuck had a heart attack and died, Lady Edith's room, and Lady Sybil's, where she too died, of undiagnosed eclampsia after giving birth.

Then it was down the famous staircase which was often featured in the series and into the grand hall - much smaller than you would imagine - which was used for large events.  It is actually a quadrangle with all the upstairs rooms overlooking the hall, which was very dark, having no external windows.  It would only have had candlelight when first built, making it rather depressing, I think.

There was no access to the castle kitchens, since the scenes were actually filmed in the studios. So No Mrs Patmore and Daisy baking for the family! Highclere kitchens are in fact very modern since nowadays they cater for the afternoon teas, private events and weddings.

EATING AND DRINKING

While there was no Carson there to serve tea (we did have a delicious iced coffee and passionfruit cake in the tea room), both Anne and I were fortunate enough to meet actor Jim Carter some years ago at a charity afternoon tea.

      Tea with Mr Carson - otherwise known as actor Jim Carter

Filming takes places from February until July, and although all the female actresses wore very glamorous 1920s outfits, in reality, they were dressed in puffer coats and Ugg boots while waiting for their scenes, with wardrobe on hand to touch up make-up and re-style hair.

EGYPTIAN EXHIBITION

As our tour of the house finished, we were directed into the basement, which obviously would have housed the kitchens when the house was originally build in 1679.  Now it is also the home of an Egyptian Exhibition. It came as a surprise to me that the George Edward Stanhope Molineux Herbert, 5th Earl of Carnarvon funded the 1922 expedition led by George Carter, which found and excavated the tomb of Tutenkhamun. Most of the Earl's substantial fortune came to him in the form of the dowry from his marriage to American socialite Amira Wombwell, a member of the Rothschild family.  Some of the original artifacts from his previous Egypt digs are on display at Highclere, but the orginal Tutenkhamun tomb and sarcophogus remain in his tomb in the Valley of the Kings. However, it seems the Earl fell foul of the curse of Tutenkhamun and died in Egypt following a mosquito bite in1923, aged just 56. I read that the family dog back home gave out a howl and died at the same moment the Earl took his last breath.... maybe something to do with the curse of Tutenkhamum.

The 5th Earl also founded the Highclere stud in 1902, and the family was one of the founders of Newmarket Races.  The 6th Earl, Henry George Marius Victor Francis Herbert continued to develop the stud and breed champion horses.  The 7th Earl, Henry George Reginald Molyneux Herbert - known as "Porchie," was the racing manager and friend to the late Queen Elizabeth 11 who was godmother to the current Earl.

The magnificent grounds surrounding the castle were the work of Capability Brown, who designed the gardens in 1771, though it seems the plans were actually carried out by estate staff.  Lancelot "Capability" Brown created around 170 parks at some of the finest country houses and estates in the country, many of which survive to this day.

Today there is a tearoom and gift shop in the grounds, and on beautiful summer days, a marquee selling cocktails - and of course, Highclere gin.  All that was missing was a game of croquet on the lawn!

                                                                    

NATIONAL COACH HOLIDAYS

Our holiday was booked through National Holidays, and in all honesty, I probably would not travel with them again. Day one was pick up day, and we spent almost five hours on the coach picking up from seven northern towns.  It was the hottest day of the year and the air conditioning wasn't working for the first few hours, which caused complaints from many of the passengers.  Our itinerary included a stop at a "place of interest" which wasn't specified.  It turned out to be Oxford, but it would have been helpful to know this in advance - it wasn't a mystery tour.  Had we known the destination, we could have planned something to do there.  As it was, we wanted to find the river and enjoy some fresh air, but everyone we spoke to was a visitor there and didn't know the where the river was!

My daughter is gluten intolerant and had told the tour company in advance, since we were staying overnight in a hotel. While I'm not sure if the message hadn't been passed to the hotel (I won't name them), her gluten free meal was absolutely appalling - a burnt chicken skewer and GF bread roll.

It is also worth mentioning that there are restrictions at Highclere.  There is a dress code which asks for smart casual attire and no backpacks are allowed.  And pushchairs, wheelchairs or motorised walking aids are not permitted in the house. While this didn't affect us, it would have been useful for other members of our tour to have been warned in advance.

I have read several reviews on Highclere, and they do vary.  Ticket prices, access and availability seem to be the main reasons for complaint.  However, since we were on an organised tour, we didn't have any problems.

Was it worth it? As a day trip I would say it was a treat for Downton fans. And we are in for another treat, since the third feature film is due to launch later this year.  Can't wait!

*These are my personal views - we have not received payment or free gifts for any of our blogs.

OUR ROYAL CHRISTMAS VACATION!

For years we made sure we had a Christmas outing, and this year was no exception.  For a change, however, we actually went away for a dew days for an extra special pre-Christmas treat.

The highlight of our visit was Christmas lunch at Highgrove House, the country home of King Charles 111 and Queen Camilla.

Each year the estate opens for a series of special events, from tours of the gardens during the summer months, champagne afternoon teas, spring walks, private tours and of course, Christmas lunch.

The original Georgian house was built between 1796-98, but was bought in 1980 by the Duchy of Cornwall for the then Prince of Wales. The current owner now is the current Prince of Wales, Prince William, and King Charles rents the estate from the Duchy.

Events are held in The Orangery and we had strict instructions (from the very friendly on-site police and staff) about where we could take photographs, so our main picture above is a file copy. We were allowed only in the Orangery and the shop.  Lunch was a typical soup starter followed by turkey, roast potatoes and vegetables.  We were given a free mulled wine because the room was so cold, but dessert - ie Christmas pudding - was only available at extra cost (but since I don't like Christmas pud, that was fine by me!). We booked this event in early September as soon as the dates were announced, as we know from previous years that the lunches sell out fast!

We loved the pretty china crockery, only to find the items for sale in the shop - with a single coffee mug costing an eye-watering £46! Of course we stocked up on other (less expensive) Highgrove themed goodies for Christmas. All the proceeds from the shop go to the Kings Foundation which offers courses, workshops and programmes on sustainable living through heritage and craft skills.

Highgrove is situated just outside the pretty town of Tetbury, nestling in the beautiful Cotswolds, and we stayed at The Ormond, an 18th century former coaching inn.  Our rooms were in what had previously been the stables, and had been beautifully restored and refurbished.  Each room was individually styled and tastefully decorated to a high standard.

FOOD AND DRINK

For our first evening, we found a delicious Spanish tapas bar Koko (with its sister restaurant Lola) on the main road through the town, which set the bar high for our gastronomic experiences during our visit. Breakfast the next day was a cosy coffee shop Cafe 53 with fresh tasty produce served by the friendly staff.  Upstairs in the same building is a lifestyle and homeware shop Domestic Science, which unfortunately for us wasn't open at the time.

We did eat at our hotel on the evening of our Christmas lunch, but this was just a light meal.  They served good wholesome British staples - probably just the thing for those ancient weary travellers.

Our evening meal on the final evening was also a good old British staple - fish and chips -which we enjoyed at The Close Hotel, where we had previously enjoyed morning coffee.  This is another beautiful hotel with stunning gardens - unfortunately too cold to enjoy at this time of year! But it did have a lovely roaring fire and cosy seating in the lounge area. The cocktails were rather good too!

It was interesting to see so many people enjoying post-work drinks or coffee in the local establishments.  We popped into The Snooty Fox for a glass of Prosecco early one evening, and it was heartening to see the bar was full of people of all ages.

HISTORY OF TETBURY

The Cotswolds, situated to the south west of England covers around 800 square miles and takes in five counties - Gloucester, Oxfordshire, Wiltshire, Warwickshire and Worcestershire - with some of the most beautiful picturesque golden honey coloured stone cottages in the country - as well as many stately homes, palaces, castles and mansions.  It has certainly become a celebrity enclave boasting many famous names buying country homes in the region. 

The area is also famous for its stunning countryside, featuring some of the most famous gardens and arboreta in the country.  Indeed, King Charles is a keen organic gardener, having transformed the almost derelict grounds at Highgrove Gardens, which incidentally are open to the public during the summer months.

The town itself has more than 1300 years of recorded history.  Many of the beautiful homes were originally owned and financed by the wool staplers (dealers) who owed their living to their wool sales.  However, there were no large mills to make it into cloth, due to the lack of continuous running water.

However the picturesque cobbled Chipping Steps (pictured above), which originally formed the entrance to the town, was the site of the "mop fairs" where domestic staff and farm workers offered themselves for employment. It now features pretty cottages, built in later years and which were once home to the town's weavers.

St Mary's Church dominates the skyline with its impressive tower.  The nave dates back to the 1770s with the spire being built some hundred years later.

The Market House (above) is probably one of the most photographed buildings in Tetbury - no longer a market but used for exhibition and event rental.  Built in 1655, it was where wool and yarn was bought and sold.  However in 1817, the top floor was removed and it became home to the county fire brigade, and was sometimes used as a police lock up before the police station opened. Incidentally there is a Police Museum and Courtroom, offering glimpses of our social history and culture with artefacts, photographs and information about the cells, courts and justice systems (who doesn't remember learning about the Peelers in English history??)

The rest of the town features an abundance of antique shops,while clothes stores were very country casuals - small Cs not the chain - and bakeries with delicious wafts of satisfying pies and pasties.

We discovered a fascinating shop - Artique - and had an interesting conversation with the owner who had spent years travelling in the Middle East and developed trading links with some of the poorest in those countries. (Read part of his story here - the rest is on newspaper cuttings on the wall of the shop) The result is an eclectic mix of ethnic products from clothing to carpets.  And who knew you could make notebooks from elephant poo?

CIRENCESTER AND MALMESBURY

Views above and below of Cirencester town centre.

  

                                                                     T   

Above is the entrance to Malmesbury Abbey

On day three, we ventured to Cirencester, just a short drive away.  Sadly the weather was against us and the rain forced us inside "the Cotswold Cathedral" known as St John the Baptist church, which stands on the site of the original Saxon church built in the 12th century. many of the original parts of the building remain - the nave originated in the 1100s but was rebuilt in around 1520 and raised in height by 20 feet.  The Tower was erected in 1400 with funds confiscated from the rebellious Earls of Kent and Salisbury, who were executed in the market place.

The church stands alongside the substantial Abbey Grounds park, which would be inviting to walk around on a sunny day, but held no welcome for us in the pouring rain!  

We drove back via the town of Malmesbury, England's oldest borough and home of the country's first king - King Athelstan (894-939AD approx).  He is reputedly buried somewhere on the site of the magnificent 12th Century abbey which dominates the skyline.  The first church on this site was St Aldhem's, before the construction of a much larger abbey which stands where the current graveyard lies.  The current abbey was built in 1180, and was added to in the following 200 years, with a great spire which boasted it was the tallest building in England.  Unfortunately the spire, and the tower fell around 100 years later. It still operates as a church to this day.

Sneaky peek of Anne heading into the church

Commemorative plaques to the side of the church depict the enormous service of the Luce family over several decades who served in all of the volunteer and armed forces during the past wars. As the daughter of a late serviceman who died after being stationed on Christmas Island in the 1950s, this had a particular resonance with me.

On to lighter topics - we discovered a gem of a hotel - the Old Bell Hotel - next to the abbey, where we had a welcome cuppa in this delightfully unusually decorated building, while watching many of the local ladies enjoying a delicious afternoon tea.  We also googled a story we had picked up in the abbey - of a local girl killed by a tiger in the 18th century. The question of course is how was there a tiger in rural England in 1703? The answer lies in the graveyard -  the final resting place of Hannah Twynnoy.  The tiger was thought to have been part of a travelling menagerie housed in a pub yard as part of an exhibition.  Hannah was a servant at the White Lion and had been repeatedly told not tease the animal, which she ignored, and the inevitable happened as the tiger lunged at her and pulled its fixing from the wall.

On the whole, we were lucky with the winter weather - although it rained one day, we missed the worst of it, especially since Storm Darragh hit the region immediately after we left.

I had wanted to try and get to High Clere Castle, home of the TV series Downton Abbey which was about an hour's drive from Tetbury, but we were too late to book a tour.  However - moving on, Santa has brought me a trip there in the Spring, so watch this space....